California's greatest draw isn't its famous cities or coastline. The state's most authentic attraction is its freshwater in all its wild forms — at least, that has been the case for my family.
My partner, Caroline Clements, and I write about water and nature and have spent the better part of the last decade documenting swims around the world. We recently returned to California to explore the state more in-depth, packing up in an old camper with our young kids and spending six months driving around the state in search of the best places to swim.
The diversity of California's environments never ceases to amaze us: mountain lakes and redwood forests; granite valleys and emerald-green pools; volcanic peaks and hot springs; the long, mellow rivers that water the state. It's these wild inland swims that impress us most.
Below are six of the state's best freshwater spots, which are by no means all-inclusive but will get you started on your own adventures. Be safe and be smart. Enjoy freshwater with joy and share it with those you love. Most importantly, treat freshwater spots with respect so others can enjoy them in the future.
Budd Lake, Yosemite National Park
Budd Lake embodies the best of Yosemite's High Sierra: a vast granite sea of high mountains, grasslands and lakes bisected by Tioga Road, an extension of Highway 120. This little blue gem sits in the Cathedral Range, a tiny tributary of the Sierra Nevada that's entirely contained within Yosemite National Park. It's a pocket-sized playground of water and stone with endless combinations of backcountry hiking, swimming and climbing. While many first-time visitors are understandably drawn to the spectacular Yosemite Valley, the High Sierra feels, thankfully, untouched by modern society.
Because this is a backcountry hike, stop at the Tuolumne Meadows Wilderness Center to pick up a map and discuss the route. Starting at the Cathedral Lakes Trailhead in Tuolumne Meadows, it's about 5 miles round trip to Budd Lake. After about a mile, turn left onto an unmaintained backcountry trail used by climbers to reach Cathedral Peak, marked by a sign with an illustration of a carabiner clip. Stay on the rough trail that follows Budd Creek. Continue up Budd Creek to reach it.
Budd Lake sits in a perfect glacial cirque at the base of two nearby peaks, Echo Peaks and Cockscomb. Polished granite bedrock forms a gently sloping beach into the clear, cool water. You could easily spend a day here, sunbathing with a book, soaking up the elasticity of geological time. It would have been exactly the same here 5,000 years ago (though 20,000 years ago you'd have been under 1,000 feet of ice). The only hint of the outside world is the dazed voices of climbers on the breeze from Cathedral Peak. It's the perfect Yosemite experience without the crowds (standard vehicle fee is $35, and park entry reservations are required in summer).
Gualala River, Mendocino County
The Gualala River (pronounced “wall-la”) marks the border between Sonoma and Mendocino counties in Northern California. Its sinuous form winds lazily through ancient redwood forests, eventually forming an estuary below windswept coastal cliffs. Inland, the river is breathtakingly quiet, encircling the Gualala River Redwoods Park and forming one of the best camping and swimming combinations in the state. This tranquil campground is separated from the outside world by a lacquered security gate. Day-use is not permitted, so you can only enter if you are a registered camper or their guest. Beneath a deep canopy of trees, most of the site is in perpetual twilight. The forest paths are strewn with soft redwood twigs and needles, and the campsites are punctuated by wild sorrel and ferns. The silence here is so complete that it's addictive. It spreads throughout the forest like fresh snow, distorting our sense of time. Only this time, my wife and I sleep like two people, not just living in her RV with our toddler.
The most popular spots overlook the river, where the current arcs around the pebble beach and carves deep, green pools (river-view campsites cost $90 a night). When the mist clears, sunlight filters into the impossibly clear water, warming the black sand below. People jump in with cheers. Local coho salmon and rainbow trout glide through the dark depths, unfazed by the commotion. Hidden among the trees, Gualala beats its own rhythm like an outsider, captivating all who visit.
Pardon Crossing, South Branch Yuba River
The South Fork of the Yuba River carves a deep gorge from the peaks of the Sierra Nevada to Sacramento Valley. For much of the year, the water swirls and swirls white as it swirls across the bedrock and tumbles into the canyon. In late June or July, when the summer heat becomes unbearable and the cicadas are at their loudest, the river drops, revealing serene emerald pools and sandy beaches. The smooth granite bedrock sparkles in the sunlight. It's worth the wait.
The nearby towns of Nevada City and Grass Valley have made South Yuba their de facto public pool. You can swim almost anywhere on this beautiful stretch of river, but our favorite access point is Pardon Crossing, a historic railroad bridge that sits squarely in our swimming Goldilocks zone. It's far enough off the main road that visitation is thin, but the beach is plentiful and easily accessible from the parking lot.
The South Yuba Trail follows the riverbank upstream. After about a quarter mile, we come to a path that leads down to Mother's Beach. This wide, slow-moving river has a gentle sandy entrance that is popular with families. It's wide enough that we could happily spend the whole day here. But we like to go another mile upstream to China Dam, where the remains of a mine diversion dam form a beautiful pool surrounded by high rocks. The cool, clear water is irresistible. A swim like this is typical of a summer in California's Gold Country. We quickly strip down and dive off the rocks. Clothing is optional here, but swimming is required.
Red Rock Pools, Santa Ynez River
The best wild swimming spots are perfect expressions of the environment and, by extension, the local culture. In the case of the Santa Ynez Valley, just north of Santa Barbara, the same conditions that make it a great wine region also define it as a great place to swim: hot and sunny, but with a lot more water than you'd expect. Deep in the valley, along the Santa Ynez River, is a prime swimming spot.
To get there, drive along Paradise Road until you cross the Santa Ynez River at the First Crossing kiosk ($10 daily fee). When the water is high in the spring and early summer, rangers quickly close the road to vehicles but allow foot and bicycle access. For the next five miles, the canyon walls get higher and the swimming hole deeper until the road dead-ends at the Red Rock Trailhead.
Even if the trailhead looks dry, there's always a place to swim at Red Rock Pools, which are fed by springs all year round. A half-mile walk along the Gibraltar Trail will bring you to the largest and most reliable swimming hole, where distinctive red rocks tower high above the water and a deep, cool pool sits at their base – perfect for luxuriating all day.
Big Sur River Valley, Pfeiffer Big Sur State Park
California's Highway 1 braves the steep slopes of the Santa Lucia Mountains for nearly 90 miles along the Pacific coast. People often get so caught up in driving through the famous Big Sur region that they forget to stop. But hidden among the ridges and streams inland are trails, campgrounds and swimming holes. The best of these is the Big Sur River Gorge in Pfeiffer Big Sur State Park ($10 daily fee). It's no secret, but many pass it by.
The park's 11-acre campground is located beneath a canopy of redwood trees in a sunny alluvial valley straddling the Big Sur River. Day visitors can park in Parking Lot 3 and access the Gorge Trail, which begins between campsites 111 and 112. An ungroomed path leads upstream along the river for about a mile, with wading and rock climbing opportunities.
On our first visit, we asked a park ranger for directions. He said, “Keep hiking until you reach the most beautiful pool you've ever seen.” He wasn't wrong. The river suddenly empties into a giant natural amphitheater, the water is amazingly clear and not as deep as it looks. One after another, people arrive, looking in stunned awe, before eventually breaking into huge smiles on their faces. As with much of Big Sur, the phone signal is thankfully terrible, so there's nothing to do except jump in and enjoy the day. (Parts of Highway 1 are closed due to a rockslide, but access to Pfeiffer Big Sur State Park from the north is currently unaffected.)
Tecopa Hot Springs
In search of natural hot springs, we've visited luxury spas, tranquil meditation centers, nudist colonies, and of course pristine wilderness areas. California has it all. And yet Tecopa, an unassuming town just south of Death Valley National Park and near the Nevada border, remains one of the most memorable places we've visited. Unlike other places, this is a place to visit in the winter, as summer temperatures regularly top 112 degrees.
Located in the Mojave Desert badlands, the town is dotted with palm trees, rusted cars and tanned ranch-style homes, along with a surprising amount of hot springs.
Mineral-rich springs bubble up from the earth, forming natural wetlands and supplying water to four small resorts and bathhouses (at last count): Delights Hot Springs Resort ($25 a day pass) offers the best views of the Nopah Mountains from its large communal outdoor pool, while Tecopa's modest public baths ($10 a day pass) pump out the hottest water in town, the latter of which, like Japanese communal baths, is gender-segregated and nude bathing only.
For a town of about 100 people, there's a surprising variety of cuisine: barbecue, a brewery, a five-seater steakhouse (reservations required), cafes, and the nearby China Ranch date farm. Hours vary so there's not too much competition, and we've heard rumors of a nightclub. It never ceases to amaze us, which is why we keep coming back.
Dillon Seychick Reardon is a photographer and author, with Caroline Clements, of Places We Swim California (Hardie Grant USA).
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